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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.